Atlant Washing Machine Error Codes
Atlant washing machines (CMA series), manufactured in Belarus, use an F-number system running from F2 through F15, along with a handful of word-based alerts like "Sel," "None," and "Door" on models without a full digital display. On non-display models, the fault is shown through a specific combination of indicator lights rather than a printed code.
Sel – Selector fault. None of the indicator lights are lit, which usually points to a malfunction in the program selector dial itself rather than a specific wash-cycle fault.
None (excess foam) – Too much detergent or the wrong wash mode. Not a hardware fault — the machine has detected excessive foam in the drum, usually from using too much powder or a detergent not suited to machine washing. Switch detergents or reduce the dose.
Door – Door lock fault. All indicator lights come on together. Make sure the door is fully closed and nothing is obstructing it; if the fault continues, check the electronic door lock and its wiring, and inspect the control module if both check out fine.
F2 – Temperature sensor fault. A broken temperature sensor, faulty control module, or damaged wiring. The heating element may need replacing alongside the sensor if both test faulty.
F3 – Heating element (TEN) fault. The heating element itself has failed, or there's a wiring or control module issue preventing it from working. Test the element's resistance with a multimeter before ordering a replacement.
F4 – Drain pump fault. Covers a wide range of causes: a clogged, pinched, or incorrectly installed drain hose, a defective pump, a foreign object stuck in the pump housing, or even a small object like a coin lodged in the drain coupling. Reinstalling the hose correctly and clearing any blockage resolves the fault in most cases.
F5 – Fill valve fault. The water supply hose is blocked or pinched, the inlet filter is clogged, the water supply itself is interrupted, or the fill valve has failed electrically. Check supply and filters before assuming the valve needs replacing.
F6 – Reversing relay fault. Caused by winding overheating or a broken/disconnected contact on the reversing relay. Both the relay and the motor's operating condition should be checked.
F7 – Power supply problem. Points to a faulty power supply board (FPS), an incorrectly functioning control module, or mains voltage that doesn't meet the machine's required parameters. Checking household voltage is a reasonable first step before assuming a component has failed.
F8 – Tank overflow. Caused by a broken pressure switch (pressostat), a stuck-open intake valve, a loss of tub sealing integrity, or damaged wiring. Check the pressure switch and intake valve first, since these are the most common culprits.
F9 – Tachometer fault. The motor or its tachogenerator has failed, or the wiring linking the motor to the control module is broken.
F10 – Door blocker fault. The mechanism that locks the hatch is damaged, or the control module isn't operating it correctly.
F12 – Motor fault. The motor itself has failed, or there's a gap in its winding or broken contacts; a control module failure can also present this way.
F14 – Software error. Requires an electronic module (control board) replacement in most documented cases, though it's worth trying a full power-cycle reset (unplug 7–15 minutes) first in case it's a temporary glitch.
F15 – Water leak detected. Points to a broken drum seal, damaged sealing cuff, or a compromised filler hose, nozzle, or coupling.
When to Call a Professional
Fill valve, drain pump, and door faults (F4, F5, F10) are workable for a confident DIY repairer. Motor, control module, and software faults (F9, F12, F14) generally require specialized testing and are better handled by a technician, particularly since Atlant's control module test mode (accessed through a specific button-and-dial sequence) needs to be run correctly to avoid misdiagnosing a fault.